ª Return to B42 and turn left. Herrenkrug 3, 39114; 0391 850 80; www.herrenkrug.de AROUND BAUHAUSGEBÄUDE An den 7 Säulen inexpensive Friendly, family-run bed and breakfast with its own sauna. GEN VISITING KOBLENZ GÖR Several boats chug up and down the Rhine, allowing one to enjoy the scenery as well as sample wines. The check, please breakfast lunch dinner bottle dish of the day main dish dessert cup wine list glass spoon teaspoon tip knife starter (appetizer) plate fork Haben sie einen Tisch für…? town of Lindau 7 Friedrichshafen WINE TASTING Baden-Württemberg; 88045 The region around Meersburg produces some fine wines. West of the town is Seebüll, where Expressionist painter Emil Nolde (1867–1956) lived and worked. Hauptstrasse 35, 77716 Haslach (east of Schwarzwälder Trachtenmuseum); 07832 97 97 97; www.hotel-storchen.de DURBACH Hotel Ritter expensive This hotel has an excellent restaurant that serves light regional nouvelle cuisine, such as marinated pot roast seasoned with mustard seeds. Most shops and services are closed on Sundays. Schwörhausgasse 6, 89073; 0731 96 79 30; www.hotelschiefeshausulm.de SSE Hotel Bäumle moderate A renovated building from 1413 with standard hotel rooms and free Internet. ª Take the Katharinenstrasse, turn left on to the B17, and continue to Schongau, where there is on-street parking in the Altstadt. FRIEDRICHSHAFEN Lammgarten inexpensive Located behind the yacht marina, this is good for Bodensee Felchen (whitefish). Swabian food is rich, traditional German cuisine. 4 Blaubeuren Baden-Württemberg; 89143 Blaubeuren is worth a stop simply to see the source of the Blau river, which joins the Danube in Ulm. The traditional countrystyle cuisine uses seasonal produce from France. Eurail Passes, such as the Eurail Global Pass, which allows unlimited first-class travel in 21 countries, are also a good option. Other carriers that offer flights to Germany are Delta Airlines, Qantas and United Airlines. The town boasts 99 miles (160 km) of cross-country ski runs. However, citizens of non-European countries should carry an International Driving Permit. Änderungsformular. Nenzenheim. The hotel also has of Böttinger’s residences, Concordia, such as the Bamberger Reiter, an a renowned restaurant. 04 Der Weinparadiesweg. Distance: 283 miles (456 km). Registrieren Sie Ihr Unternehmen . Photolibrary: Bahnmueller Bahnmueller 27br; Barbara Boensch 133br; DEA Picture Library 179tl; euroluftbild euroluftbild 98tl; Hendrik Holler 215tr; Stefan Kiefer 189tl; Werner Otto 39c, 52br, 134br, 190-191; Chris Seba 37tr; Siepmann 177bl; Konrad Wothe 21tl; Ernst Wrba 100tl. However, prices are also heavily influenced by other factors, such as the time of year. Disowned by his country, he became the leading voice of Exilliteratur, the exiled German literature that was outlawed by the Nazi regime. One of its many attractive buildings is the Rathaus, parts of which date back to 1320. ª Leave Quedlinburg on Gernröder Weg, which becomes Suderöder Chausee, then turn right on Suderöder Strasse for Thale. 5 Burg Schlitz Mecklenburg-Lower Pomerania; 17166 Nicknamed “Mecklenburg Switzerland” due to its low moraine hills, the municipality of Hohen Demzin is known for its palaces, the grandest of which is the Neo-Classical Burg Schlitz. loreley-touristik.de) has an Englishlanguage exhibition on the region’s past and natural history. EAT AND DRINK AROUND BEFREIUNGSHALLE Gasthof Berzl inexpensive A traditional, family-run inn next to the Altmühl gate, this place offers excellent meat and homemade sausages. Landscape and architecture Follow the tour from Magdeburg 4 to the Bauhaus design school 5. Closer examination Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150 revealed this to be part of a 3rd-century Roman country mansion, now protected by the Museum Römervilla (Apr–mid-Nov: closed Mon) where the building’s foundations can be seen. Camping Summer is the best time for a camping trip to Germany, as most camp sites close between November and March. The Harz’s highest peak, the Brocken, is also its centerpiece, not least for its long-standing mystical associations with witchcraft. century Baroque palace that Logo, was extensively renovated in Fürstenberg beer belle époque style at the end of the 19th century. 6 Schloss Nordkirchen North Rhine-Westphalia; 59394 The vast, moated Schloss Nordkirchen, (open Sun) nicknamed the “Westphalian Versailles,” is a perfectly symmetrical French Baroque castle. The Mainschleife The Mainschleife is a loop-like meander of the Main river east of Würzburg at a point where the landscape has a particularly gentle beauty, framed by low, vine-covered hillsides and dotted with attractive small villages. Langenordnach WÜRTTEMBERG Falkensteig H When to go: This drive is best avoided in the winter months (December–March) when the top of the Feldberg is snowbound. Gartenstrasse 4, 72074; 07071 278 48 Ratskeller moderate Enjoy quality traditional fare served behind the Rathaus. 27–28, which now hosts exhibitions. Gothic Münster (open daily), which Look out for the pretzel carved in the was begun in 1377. The drive follows an established and well-marked wine route past picturesque vineyards, beautiful villages, chic hotels, and top-quality restaurants. It has a superb wine selection, too. Follow directions to Schliersee. Preetz, an old shoemakers’ town and Bosau, home to a Romanesque church, are nearby. It is also time for the solemn observance of Easter. SPEYER Domhof moderate This ivy-clad hotel is very close to Speyer’s cathedral, with 49 single and double rooms furnished in conser vative style. Traditional German potato salad and pasta dishes are often sold in convenient deli-style plastic containers for easy carrying on a road trip. Restaurant 1927 expensive The Goldener Anker hotel’s restaurant offers refined Franconian cooking, with a few Mediterranean influences, matched with fine German and French wines. There are also attractions such as the Paula-ModersohnBecker art museum. He died in exile, in Sweden, before the World War II he had predicted broke out. It specializes in fish, with the Loup de Mer (seabass with potatoes, olives, capers, white wine, garlic, and tomatoes) being one of the best dishes on the menu. Altmarkt 2, 98574; 03683 27 42 MEININGEN Die Posthalterei expensive Located in the Sächsischer Hof hotel, this is the finest restaurant in the Thuringian Forest. Disabled Drivers There are a number of parking concessions for disabled drivers in Germany. It is also possible to sleep on the beach. The Stadtschloss (open Sat–Fri), former residence of Fulda’s bishops, has a cabinet of mirrors. History and architecture Visit the memorial at Sachsenhausen 2 before heading to the delightful Schloss Rheinsberg 1. It also has its own winery in a stylish, ultra-modern property on the outskirts of Volkach. Ebrach sits at the heart of the idyllic forested Naturpark Steigerwald (www.steigerwald.org), offering scope for relaxing country walks. with a double bed? Retrieving an impounded car is expensive and difficult. HAIGERLOCH Cosita expensive This gourmet restaurant serves excellent Mediterranean cuisine. Rossbach Linz RÖMERVILLA Dernau Start/finish: Remagen to Trier. Look out for brown signs to Schloss Lichtenstein parking lot. 0 kilometers 5 0 miles Shopping: Pick up local wines, such as Rieslings, in Bacharach or Rüdesheim. Park near the town hall and tourist information office. Ebracher Hof Hüttenheim‎ (11 D) Pfarrkirche St. Johannes Baptist Hüttenheim‎ (1 K, 12 D) Evangelische Johanneskirche (Hüttenheim in Bayern)‎ (4 D Weingut Ebracher Hof. The Bridge at Remagen The capture of the Ludendorff Bridge at Remagen by American forces in March 1945 has been seen as a turning point in World War II, since this was the last remaining bridge over the Rhine. On the right, tall half-timbered houses lean at giddy angles and on the left is the ª Leave the city on Eschhöfer Weg, following signs to Runkel. The Öschberghof (Golfplatz 1, 78166; 0771 840) is the best restaurant in town. However, Dresden is busy at this time. Many shops and services are closed on Sundays. EAT AND DRINK IN XANTEN Café de Fries inexpensive Savory crêpes, waffles, salads, and snacks are served in this café-cumcake shop with a large terrace. Collegienstrasse 56/57, 06886; 03491 42 50; www.stadtpalais.bestwestern.de A two-hour walking tour AU Alte Canzley moderate The former chancellery building has now been revamped to create a spotless, upmarket hotel. Speed Limits and Fines There is no specific speed limit for driving on the Autobahn, although many sections of it recommend a speed of 81 mph (130 kph). ª Continue along the B11 to Benediktbeuern. 4) takes 50 minutes to cover the 12-mile (20-km) journey northwards to Gotha. r Wachenheim Rhineland-Palatinate; 67157 The impressive ruins of the 12th-century castle of Wachtenburg dominate Wachenheim. Martenshofweg 8, 24109; 0431 533 14 35; www.hotel-birke.de SCHLESWIG Stadt Flensburg inexpensive Regional food is served in this charming restaurant. Other options Coffee with cake is a German ritual and can be enjoyed at Café-Conditorei Belstner (Altstadt 295, 84028; 0871 221 90; www.cafe-belstner.de) Head west from Ingolstadt on the B13. Behind the church, occasional wisps of steam drifting over the cobbled street announce the presence of the Bäderviertel 7 at the base of some stone steps. M VISITING WISMAR DRIVE 4: Land of a Thousand Lakes 63 Swedish Heads Wismar’s unofficial mascots, these brightly painted, moustachioed figures have lions’ heads for hats. Eurostar’s high-speed passenger service also offers many cheap options for traveling by train. Walluf Budenheim Ingelheim GauAlgesheim Nieder Olm RHEINLANDP FA L Z Wörrstadt GauOdernheim Albig Flonheim Alzey Kriegsfeld Freimersheim Flomborn Kirchheimbolanden Albisheim Flörsheim Monsheim BOCKENHEIM Göllheim Eisenberg Grünstadt Hettenleidelheim FREINSHEIM Alsenborn Ungstein BAD DÜRKHEIM WACHENHEIM Hochspeyer DEIDESHEIM GIMMELDINGEN Esthal Above Vineyards along the way to Nierstein, see p165 Lambrecht NEUSTADT AN DER WEINSTRASSE ST. MARTIN MAIKAMMER EDENKOBEN Hambach Ramberg ACTIVITIES Rinnthal Wilgartswiesen Burrweiler Hainfeld Frankweiler SIEBELDINGEN ANNWEILER Sample the wines on an oenophile’s tour of the region’s superb wineries Take a hike in the unspoiled Naturpark Pfälzer Wald in St. Martin Scare yourself in the ossuary at Oppenheim and then tour the underground passages Hike to the impressive ruins of Wachtenburg for spectacular views over the Rhine Valley Acquire a taste for Saumagen, Pfalz’s most famous regional speciality Birkweiler BURG TRIFELS BURG LANDECK GleiszellenGleishorbach LEINSWEILER Klingenmünster BAD BERGZABERN Dörrenbach SchweigenRechtenbach Wissembourg Landau Minfeld DEUTSCHES WEINTOR FRANCE Scheibenhardt Kandel DRIVE 15: The German Wine Route 159 PLAN YOUR DRIVE Start/finish: Deutsches Weintor to Speyer. Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40 DRIVE 17 Hamburg Bremen Berlin Hannover Dortmund Köln Leipzig GERMANY Frankfurt Saarbrücken Nürnberg Stuttgart München Jurassic Crags and Feudal Fiefdoms Ingolstadt to Landshut Highlights • Jurassic park Discover Naturpark Altmühltal’s dramatic limestone crags and Jurassic fossils • Divine inspiration Enjoy the rich artistic legacy of the region’s complex religious history • The Donaudurchbruch Visit the lovely wooded stretch of the Danube, where the pretty landscape is punctuated with architectural delights • Beer culture Look out for the region’s distinctive hop-growing frames before sampling the excellent local beers Limestone crags along the scenic route to Solnhofen 182 BACK ROADS GERMANY Jurassic Crags and Feudal Fiefdoms Jurassic geology adds drama to the gentle landscapes of Bavaria’s Naturpark Altmühltal, one of Germany’s largest nature reserves. Park below the Burg. In cafés and less expensive restaurants, the menu may be handwritten in German, in which case the staff may help with a translation. Ihr Nachname. Firmenprofile mit Kontaktinformationen, Telefonnummern, Öffnungszeiten & vielem mehr auf Cylex finden Ebracher Hof und fränkische Hofanlage Burgstall des Deutschen Ordens Fahrradmuseum Tante-Emma-Laden 6 61 71 92 93 96 98 38 39 27 203 150 164 62 D C F G Sportplatz Sportplatz 118 BUS Wohnmobilstellplatz Wanderparkplatz P H1 + H2 145 55 13 56 A B 58 Kirchenburg-Express fährt vom 1. Ascend the Fürstenzug 3, a 335-ft tower (late Mar–Oct: open Wed–Mon) (102-m) long frieze, made of for a view over the skyline. Rooms are decorated in traditional style and have en suite bath or shower; many have balconies or mountain views. Turn right at the B187, then left at Elsterstrasse and right on Am Hauptbahnhof to exit on Lutherstrasse. Stadtkirche or parish church, built around 1300. Hourly cruises (May–Sept: open daily), depart from the jetty in front of the spa complex for the island of Wörth in the center of the lake. Duke Paul Friedrich Franz II’s inspiration for the renovation of his dynastic residence came from the Loire’s Chambord Chateau. ª Leave Forchheim along Bamberger Strasse, following yellow signs for Bamberg. The Baroque palace garden, Schlossgarten, is graced by many fountains and more than 50 statues. Parking is available on Platz der Jugend opposite St. Petrikirche. Attractions include half-timbered houses, windmills, and a small 17thcentury church. ª Return via Angermünder Strasse and just before Eberswalde, turn left on Oderberger Strasse which becomes Macherslust, then turn right on to Hebewerk Strasse. The old town hall now houses the municipal art collection (open during exhibitions only). Park at the back of the Rathaus on Ringstrasse. Parking is available in the lot on Pradeplatz. 3 Bad Hindelang Bavaria; 87541 This Alpine paradise by the Austrian border is made up of scattered settlements. A lot of camp sites also have additional cabins apart from pitches for tents, motorhomes, or trailers. romantikhotel-pirna.de Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150 Fountains and flowerbeds, parterre patterns and statues of antique deities make this the most grandiose of Augustus’s pleasure gardens. The SE In s el 0 meters 200 WA LLG UTS nearby Münster (open TR MNASIUMG GY K AT ZG daily) commands Münster 0 yards 200 Münsterplatz TORGAS attention – built of SE HOFH Stadtgarten AL local sandstone, the DE SCH ZO UL LL STR E RN AS STR church has oak doors SE FISCH- Konzilgebäude MÜ that are known for MARKT NZ GA SS E their carvings of New M A R K TST ÄT T E Testament scenes. Follow the route to Arnstadt, and then retrace the route to Ilmenau. Meinten Sie z.B. Take the B101 past Schwarzenberg and Raschau to Annaberg-Buchholz. FERIENWOHNUNG . It is possible to climb the 295-ft (90-m) high church tower, known as the Daniel (open daily), for a bird’s-eye view of the distant rim of the Ries Crater. 6 Schloss Pillnitz Saxony; 01326 A drive along the Elbe offers views of the 19th-century villas and palaces on the river’s northern bank. Landhausstrasse to the parking lot. Domstrasse 15, 18273; 03843 68 24 85 BURG SCHLITZ Rittersaal expensive This restaurant is housed in the spectacular Neo-Classical hall in Burg Schlitz and specializes in French and Italian cuisine with an Asian touch. On the opposite corner is the Baroque Siemenshaus 7 (open Tue & Thu), the family home of the Siemens industrialist family. It has a beer garden and bike rentals. Shops are open from 9am to 5pm, Monday to Friday and close early on Saturdays. Jahrhundert war Mainstockheim Ebracher Klosteramt. An easy walk is the one up the Schlossberg or Castle Hill to the east of the old town, which links up with a good selection of further well-marked trails. Sprechen Sie Englisch? Tal 1, 77770; 0781 932 30; www.ritter-durbach.de Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150 photographs at this saw mill museum illustrate a bygone era when the town was the hub of a logging industry. w Kochel am See Bavaria; 82431 To the north of Walchensee lies Kochel am See. Spring (April & May), when fruit trees are in bloom, is particularly attractive. Facilities include a sauna. For the caves, head from Thale to Blankenburg and on to the B27. u Bayrischzell Bavaria; 83735 Nestled at the foot of the 6,030-ft (1,838-m) Wendelstein is the rustic village of Bayrischzell. Look out for signs for parking lots in Garmisch and in Partenkirchen. Number of days: 1–2 days, allowing half a day to explore Park Sanssouci. In fact, Dresden is better understood in terms of its resurrection. Telefon 09326-1765 oder 09326-979008. info@weingut-hillabrand.de. The ecclesiastical frontier Visit the red-brick abbeys and churches at Jerichow 2 and Havelberg 1 and then wander around the half-timbered houses of Luther’s Living Room Look out for Luther’s living room in the Lutherhaus. Turn right on to the B33 and then take the Staad-Meersburg ferry to Meersburg. na Erbach Do A l b Bremelau Rottenacker Untersulmetingen Oberstadion Unlingen Riedlingen Uttenweiler Top Rural landscape between Beuron and Donaueschingen Below Blautopf, the source of the Blau river, Blaubeuren, see p229 Neufra Opening times: Most attractions are open daily. de) depart regularly on stately cruises up the Elbe to Bad Schandau via all the destinations included in this tour. Inside, Goldener Saal, or Golden Hall (open daily), is a masterpiece of the restorer’s art, complete with a gilded walnut ceiling. Turn left on to Wallensteinstrasse to park near the Schloss. At Häusern, turn left on to the B500 to Schluchsee. Later, it became known as an occult center, where witches were said to gather before flying to the Brocken on Walpurgisnacht. DRIVE 4: Land of a Thousand Lakes 65 vintage steamer. Er hat Visionen. This cathedral was built in the 13th century on a dramatic site high above the Lahn river and is visible from miles around. ª Continue on the side road to Bad Dürkheim. The best way to explore Fehmarn is on foot or a bike. Highlights include the Spiegelsaal (mirror hall), with its dizzying ceiling fresco by court painter Antoine Pesne, and the Baroque Muschelsaal (shell hall) with its maritime theme. 5 Loreley Rhineland-Palatinate; 56346 The giant rock outcrop on the opposite side of the Rhine from Sankt Goar, and above Sankt Goarshausen, is known as the Loreley. Much of the town has been preserved, along with its Romanesque palace. Boxberg BAD MERGENTHEIM Berolzheim Stuppach Assamstadt Aub Röttingen Igersheim Bieberehren WEIKERSHEIM CREGLINGEN Rinderfeld B A D E N - Niederstetten WÜRTTEMBERG Krautheim Hohebach Mulfingen H o h e n l o h e Künzelsau Schrozberg Blaufelden Buchenbach Gerabronn 0 kilometers 10 Kirchberg 0 miles 10 Crailsheim Gründelhardt Above Bicycle path beside the main road to Nördlingen, see p198 KEY ACTIVITIES Drive route Take a hike past vineyards, castles, and churches on the long-distance footpath that follows the “Romantic Road” Sample the wines of the Tauber Valley, where a bike path runs along the vineyard trail on the boundary between Bavaria and Baden Württemberg Encounter wildlife at Bad Mergentheim’s Wildpark, where the attractions include deer, lynx, brown bears, and a pack of wolves Discover Rothenburg ob der Tauber on an English-language evening walk with the town’s night watchman Take a walk along the well-marked footpaths of the Geopark Ries for a close view of the meteorite crater Below Courtyard and well, Schloss Harburg, see p199 Rosenberg DRIVE 18: The Northern Romantic Road 193 Dettelbach Schwarzach Kitzingen Mainbernheim Sulzfeld Marktbreit Willanzheim Nenzenheim Above Resplendent Schlossgarten, Weikersheim, Oberickelsheim see p195 Gollhofen Deutenheim Uffenheim Start/finish: Würzburg to Donauwörth. Above left Sign for a restaurant serving wines from Baden-Baden Above right too; the size of 80 football fields, they contain several fun villages themed by European countries. Hauptstrasse 31, 97332; 09381 848 40; www.restaurant-sachs.de; open Thu– Sat from 6pm daily; closed Jan–Feb DETTELBACH Café Kehl inexpensive One of the nicest places to try Dettelbach’s famous fat-free cookies, Muskazinen, the Café Kehl is a snug and rustic café that serves good coffee and cakes. Maximilianstrasse 12, 67346; 06232 786 12; closed Sun dinner & Mon Zum Alten Engel moderate Cozy cellar-restaurant that is an adherent of the Slow Food movement. Taschenburg 3, 01067; 0351 49 72 60 Villandry moderate A relaxed locals’ restaurant and bar specializing in Mediterranean cuisine. To the south of Marktstrasse is the Gries, a quaint artisans’ quarter. Opposite the castle gates is a restaurant and café, the Burgschenke Schloss Prunn, serving snacks and cakes as well as full meals. Turn right to Reichenau three surviving churches. With the construction of the town hall, a new gate entrance was created. 34 BACK ROADS GERMANY Right Lush apple orchards in Jork, Altes Land Below left Stately Rathaus on Am Markt, Lüneburg Below right Outdoor cafés in Stade VISITING LÜNEBURG Parking The most convenient parking lots are at the train station and the Rathaus. Erhard Haßold, Linda ökologischer Weinbau. Book in advance. DRIVE 13: Roman Ruins and Fine Wines 143 archaeology museum with many beautifully presented treasures, including coins and mosaics. Walk the gabled Gothic Rathaus back to Frauenstrasse and 6 (closed Mon) where the turn left to the Gothic Catholic faction brokered a Liebfrauenkirche, the Church peace deal to end the Thirty of Our Lady, popularly called Years’ War. Stairs lead to a viewing platform that has superb views over Kelheim and the gorge. Its open-air museum, Freilichtmuseum (mid-Apr– Oct: closed Mon), provides a glimpse of rustic Mecklenburg. Oberdachstetten Road conditions: The route is marked with brown “Romantische Strasse” signs. A castle has stood here since the 10th century, though this is a 1914 rebuild of the one burned down by French troops in 1689. A two-hour walking tour BA HN ASSE ISCH GAS SE SE E L H O FG WE BER KOH PFA UE NGAS S E WA L F SE D REB EN SE Münste rplatz PAR A DI ES G H H IR SC H UH SS G ER NB LA E UT E Münsterplatz FIN GE RG SE AS AS SE RA N E U E ST Rathaus G S CH WEIN H OF B E R G G AS WE MO IN H OF AS SE Where to Stay: inexpensive under €70; moderate €70–€150; expensive over €150 200 LE R SS E Schiefes Haus H G REN ASS KR AT E E ON Z E ASS NG UN TE R DE RG 0 yards GA EL HE 200 INS FIS C AS SE 0 meters ER E FD AD S AU BE EN AU RA OM Fischerviertel S AT T Schwörhaus ÖR H SG PR G H ÄM P F ER ER SE RM ZIG ET Metzgerturm uer tma Stad Don SSE Ulmer Museum PL NK N MEN SCHW HE WIL MAR K T E NE U E S T R A S S E HAUSGA S SE KRAM G GA P NEU E ST RA SS TEN KÖ L AU Münster Münsterplatz ES G AS SE EI CH EL AS RA S S E S CH S T SE ST R Maritim Hotel expensive With modern rooms, this is Ulm’s best hotel. houses with thatched roofs and decorated gables await the visitor. Walking uphill cross Neue Strasse and turn right beneath the Metzgerturm leads along Sattlergasse to arrive at Weinhof to the marketplace, where the glassy Square. auf den Seiten von Winzerhof Soldner in Bullenheim. Main market days: The Wartburg: Wed & Thu; Ilmenau: Thu & Fri; Arnstadt: Tue, Fri & Sat; Erfurt: Mon–Sat; Weimar: Wed, Thu–Sun. The steps up to the church and castle are found by turning right out of the Atomkeller and following the base of the cliff. Restaurants generally close at 10pm. Hauptstrasse 9, 92339; 08461 12 03; www.der.millipp.de The university town of Eichstätt, an independent Catholic bishopric for centuries, retains the feel of a miniature capital city. Then turn right onto the B192. Wann öffnen Sie? Saxony is widely known for its cakes, or Stollen; there are strict requirements which must be met for a cake to be considered an authentic Dresdner Stollen, including where it is made geographically. 0 Sylt Schleswig-Holstein; 25980 Also visit the Dom (open daily), which displays the Bordesholmer altar, a masterpiece of Gothic carving.